Tim Hughes enjoys a taste of Raymond Banc's culinary genius at a bargain price at Brasserie Blanc

Chefs are, without doubt, the new rock stars. It is only fitting then, that they are now promoted as widely as the musical headliners at our summer festivals.

I have suspected this for some time – since seeing Russell Norman of Soho restaurant Polpo leaving his tented kitchen at Wilderness a couple of years ago in a pair of orange sunglasses to greet diners – setting the hearts of adoring fans fluttering.

Jamie Oliver is always greeted as an icon at his Big Feastival as is Gizzi Erskine, and Tom Kerridge receives the kind of respect that Coldplay can only dream of in every festival field he treads.

But no one is received with the same adulation as our very own Raymond Blanc.

Last weekend he returned to Wilderness, at Cornbury Park, for the second year running, to cook two long-table banquets, each for 400 revellers.

He received a standing ovation. In fact he received about four, each time he popped out of the kitchen to meet his wide-eyed fans – and finsished with a theatrical bow (to witty calls for an encore).

Raymond, who lives in North Oxford, told me he had intended to bring a little affordable taste of his much-vaunted, two-Michelin-starred, Le Manoir Aux Quat'Saisons to this hallowed field. And, by Jove, he did – with a stunning five course lunch of gazpacho, mozzarella and tomato 'Mammon Blanc', roast pork, monkfish tail and îles flottantes.

But fans of the chef – the star of TV shows Kew on a Plate, How to Cook Well and The Restaurant – don't have to wait until next summer's Wilderness for a taste of Blanc brilliance. We can go to Jericho.

While Le Manoir grabs the headlines Raymond is equally proud of his reasonably priced Brasserie Blanc, being personally involved in the menu, the development of dishes and the decor, if not the day-to-day cooking. He is also very hands on in choosing his of deputies, ensuring the restaurant which carries his name is up to scratch.

Keen to see if it really did live up to his high standards, I joined a pair of friends – both hungry, but sceptical, Blanc fans – and wandered along Walton Street to see if this exceptionally economical imitation of a French provincial brasserie.

Following last year's revamp, the brasserie is cool and modern – all muted browns, teals and greens, and trendy wallpaper – while still maintaining those charming Gallic touches butter pats and rustic farmhouse kitchen implements hanging on the walls). The food is similarly traditional and 'now' – and satisfyingly French.

I started in the only way I know how at a French restaurant, with escargots (£7.40). These were served with garlic herb butter in one of those heavy dimpled dishes, especially made for the purpose. They were earthy with plenty of bite, with any bitterness softened out by the rich garlic. It was fun and fine, though I wouldn't have wanted to have kissed myself after.

The others went for a potted Cromer crab (£8.50) and a cheese souffle (£6.50). The crab was fresh, meaty and fragrant – in a way that the lobster can never touch – and was delicately flavoured with shallot and coriander guacamole and prawn butter.

The souffle was even better. Having stole a fork-full, I found to be smooth and so light it was a miracle it stayed on the plate. It was, notably flavoured with a rich, mature Cheddar sauce – a satisfying acknowledgement that good old English cheese is more flavoursome than anything from the other side of the Channel. Perhaps.

It was just as well we chose light starters, because the main 'plats' were enormous. My two friends chose the signature Chateaubriand for two (£24.90 each). It was served with due reverence and dominated the table in all its rare, juicy glory. Tender and bursting with flavour it was divine, and came in a quantity which defeated the table.

I went off piste and chose a BB Big Grill which was being offered at the time (do ask for the specials). It was scarcely any smaller – and would also have fed two.

It came with a length of Ongelt steak, Barnsley lamb chop, Toulouse sausage, 'La Bresse' black pudding, kidney, potatoes – and an enormous heritage tomato.

It was a carnivore's dream, though way too much for me and, with a heavy heart, and heavier belly, had to leave some on the plate – later regretting I hadn't pretended to have a dog and taken it home to eat for breakfast the next day.

We finished, full and grinning, with coffees and the remainder of the exceptionally well-priced, soft and spicy Carignon/Merlot blend (£18.45 a bottle).

Raymond is right to proud. For a price which compares to some very average chain establishments (with very patchy service), Monsieur Blanc has created a homely taste of his hometown of Besançon, right in the heart of Jericho. It's not Le Manoir, but is all the better for that.

Brasserie Blanc, 71-72 Walton Street, Oxford. 01865 510999. brasserieblanc.com

If you don't believe me, just witness the reception