BIKER GROVE

The last time I went to Zappi’s I was impressed, this time I was blown away.

What had been a simple, fun, easy café catering to the lycra clad customers of the bike shop below, has since become a bastion of Oxford’s café society.

But then a lot has changed since then, its name for a start. It is now The Handle Bar Café and Kitchen and alongside its new title comes a vibrant, much larger space - the kitchen and cafe having swapped ends, making it more spacious and balanced.

The owners bought out the St Michaels’ guest house next door, placing the shop and workshop downstairs, giving Dan Roiser free rein with the café upstairs. Six months in, it’s a raging success.

He nabbed head chef Celine Wills (previously from The Anchor and The Perch) and she and French chef Eric Tomdine set about transforming the menu, cooking everything from scratch including the brioche buns they serve the burgers in.

The kitchen is entirely separate, and open-plan for those keen to witness who is whipping up such wondrous creations.

And now, instead of serving good, cycle-fuelling breakfasts and fantastic coffee, there is more of a Californian feel to it these days.

Bikes are still strung all over the walls and ceilings and we marvelled at the Penny Farthings, my son wondering why the Victorians didn’t start with two same sized wheels to begin with.

The bar now stretches the whole way across the front where the gorgeous, welcoming waiters and waitresses make up the drinks and coffee orders.

But while the décor is fun and refreshing and the staff are a marvel, the real star of the show is the food.

Yes the menu sounded good, but paper promises often fail to deliver on the plate, unable to replicate the grand ideas in the kitchen.

So while the menu wasn’t particularly unique – avocado on toast, brunch and burgers featuring pretty much everywhere these days - it also offered a quiche of the day, soup, all day breakfast, numerous veggie and vegan options, salads such as lamb with pomegranate and a sumac dressing, as well as fresh fish.

And judging by the bright, fresh, interesting looking food being carried aloft around the heaving floor, it was hitting the spot with the varied clientele ranging from students, to mums, tourists to workers, with scarcely a whiff of cycling shorts to be had in the entire premises.

The coffee in a glass with a heart on top set the standards for the rest of the meal, for starters a chilled pea and mint soup (£5), perfect for a hot summer’s day which tasted as delicate, light and fragrant as I’d hoped. My son’s avocado on sourdough (£6), with feta, almonds, seeds, beautifully roasted tomatoes and wild garlic, was so juicy and tasty that I nicked as many mouthfuls as I dared and marvelled at how much flavour the kitchens had packed in. Absolute heaven.

As The Handle Bar hosts numerous foodie events, this being it’s vegan weekend, we both opted for the quinoa, spring onion and roast beetroot burger in a brioche bun with mint yoghurt, triple cooked chips and a wonderfully piquant salad. (£10). We both polished it off instantly, although missed having something to get our teeth into, literally - the quinoa and bun both being soft, despite it being a tasty and innovative dish.

The brownie with a berry coulis was another highlight, the berries on top soddening that chewy top I love, but a brilliant flavour combination, and a refreshing change from ice cream, as evidenced by the gleaming bowl afterwards.

Sitting back, watching the animated, chattering, eating, enthusiastic clientele I wondered why there aren’t more places like this in Oxford.

Or perhaps The Handle Bar is just bucking the trend and this is a glimpse of the future.

If so, I like what I see.

So, I’ll be back for the all-day breakfast before you can say Bradley Wiggins, bike or no bike. My new favourite place.

The Handle Bar Cafe and Kitchen ?

Above Bike Zone 26-32 St Michaels Street, Oxford OX1 2EB

Phone:07964 241212